I LOVE running trails. I HATE sticks and rocks getting stuck in my shoes. What to do about it? Buy gaiters! Gaiters are very popular with hikers and runners. They’re bits of fabric designed to go around your ankle and shoe to keep debris out. When I first learned about them I rushed to the store and bought a pair. The gaiters worked great but I am a distance runner and when I wore them for runs mores than a few miles, they started to cut into my ankles and really annoy me. When I’d take them off I’d have a sharp indention around my ankle where the elastic had been cutting into my skin.
Gaiters really do not take up a lot of fabric. They didn’t look complicated to make and I thought to myself, why not make my own pair? It took quite a bit of trial and error, but I am really happy with the version I came up with and I want to share my knowledge with you so you can skip the mistakes and end up with a perfect pair on your first go round!
Gaiters really do not take up a lot of fabric. They didn’t look complicated to make and I thought to myself, why not make my own pair? It took quite a bit of trial and error, but I am really happy with the version I came up with and I want to share my knowledge with you so you can skip the mistakes and end up with a perfect pair on your first go round!
Let’s get started.
What you need:
What you need:
- A sewing machine and thread
- A piece of paper
- Scissors or rotary cutter
- Sew on Velcro
- Sticky back Velcro
- Hooks (2)
- Performance/moisture wicking stretch fabric. The fabric I used for this tutorial was a directional print with 50% stretch width wise and 30% stretch length wise. I’m sure a variety of fabrics will work. Just know you might have to adjust your pattern piece bigger or smaller if your first try isn’t a good fit.
- A 3 inches by 7 inches piece of non-stretch cotton fabric.
First, let’s get started by making your pattern piece. You can use a regular piece of paper or you can use wax paper. This pattern piece will include seam allowances so no need to add them.
1. Mark 7 inches up from the bottom corner of the page.
2. Mark 7.5 inches from the bottom corner to the right.
3. Draw a line from 7 inches, 3.75 in into the paper. It should be a flat line and not angled up or down.
4. Draw a curved line from the 3.75 mark to the 7.5 mark. It's not a straight line, it's a slightly curved line!
5. Mark the fold so you remember where to line up the fold of your fabric.
This is what your pattern piece will look like so far.
1. Mark 7 inches up from the bottom corner of the page.
2. Mark 7.5 inches from the bottom corner to the right.
3. Draw a line from 7 inches, 3.75 in into the paper. It should be a flat line and not angled up or down.
4. Draw a curved line from the 3.75 mark to the 7.5 mark. It's not a straight line, it's a slightly curved line!
5. Mark the fold so you remember where to line up the fold of your fabric.
This is what your pattern piece will look like so far.
6. Cut along the lines to reveal your pattern piece.
Now it’s time to cut your fabrics!
1. Fold your stretch fabric in half. Line up the fold on your pattern piece with the fold in your fabric. Cut 2.
1. Fold your stretch fabric in half. Line up the fold on your pattern piece with the fold in your fabric. Cut 2.
This is what it will look like after you've cut it. Make sure you're NOT cutting on the fold line. Just cut the other 3 sides. Make sure you cut TWO. You'll need one for each foot!
2. Cut 1 piece of non-stretch cotton fabric 3 inches by 7 inches. Honestly you can cut this shorter, it could be 3 inchs by 5 inches but sometimes I like a little extra fabric just in case so that's why I made mine larger.
Are you ready to sew?!
1. Fold the 3x7 piece of fabric in half. Sew with ¼ seam allowance the short ends of the fabric. It will look like this when it’s done.
1. Fold the 3x7 piece of fabric in half. Sew with ¼ seam allowance the short ends of the fabric. It will look like this when it’s done.
2. Flip inside out and push so it makes a point and the seam is in the middle (see photo). Iron flat. Set aside for later.
3. If you would like you can serge or zig-zag stitch the top and bottom of each pattern piece, however, this isn’t necessary as the stretch fabric won't fray. It just makes for a more professional finish.
4. Fold right sides together and stitch along the curved/diagonal edge. Use a stretch stitch (it looks like a lighting bolt) or a serger. Once you've done both they will look like this.
5. Take the cotton piece you prepared earlier and trim along the piece to make a triangle. Repeat for the other one.
6. Find the larger opening to your pattern piece and fold the fabric so you can see the seam line. Line up the seam line of the triangle with the seam line of your pattern piece. Pin in place.
7. Using the stretch stitch, sew the two pieces together with a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Serge or zig-zag stitch the same spot. This will prevent your cotton fabric from fraying. Repeat for the other side.
8. Push the triangle tip up and flip over. Fold down ½ inch and pin all of the way around. Using a ½ inch seam allowance, use a wide zig-zag stitch or a cover stitch all of the way around. Repeat on the other one.
This is what they will look like when you're finished with that part:
9. Fold the TOP part that will go around your ankle down (the other side you haven’t sewn yet) ½ inch, pin in place and zig-zag stitch around. Repeat for the other one.
10. Cut TWO 1.5 inches of the loop side of Velcro (it’s the softer side).
11. Fold the gaiter in half to find the middle back seam. Line up the middle of the Velcro with the middle of the back seam. Pin in place and then stitch the velcro in place using a regular stitch. Repeat for the other side.
11. Fold the gaiter in half to find the middle back seam. Line up the middle of the Velcro with the middle of the back seam. Pin in place and then stitch the velcro in place using a regular stitch. Repeat for the other side.
This is what they will look like when you're done:
12. Hand sew the hook so that it is at the tip of the triangle and facing the tip of the triangle (it should not be facing you). Repeat for the other side.
13. Clip threads and you’re done with the sewing part!
Now it’s time to add Velcro to your shoes!
Take your sticky back Velcro and cut two 1 inch hook pieces (the hard side of velcro). Use scissors to curve the corners. Peel off the plastic backing and place the Velcro in the middle back of your shoe. Some trail shoes already have Velcro on the back. You won’t need to add some if you have it already.
Watch the video for how to put your gaiters on and have fun on those trails!
Now it’s time to add Velcro to your shoes!
Take your sticky back Velcro and cut two 1 inch hook pieces (the hard side of velcro). Use scissors to curve the corners. Peel off the plastic backing and place the Velcro in the middle back of your shoe. Some trail shoes already have Velcro on the back. You won’t need to add some if you have it already.
Watch the video for how to put your gaiters on and have fun on those trails!
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