Hello Stroller Warriors! 

I’ve got an easy craft for you, scrunchies! Soon you'll be able to make scrunchies for all of your favorite running friends. Scrunchies are coming back in style (or so my pre-teen says). Here is how to do them!

​What you need: 
-Sewing machine 
-Thread
-Scissors
-Safety pins (2)
-Fabric 
-Elastic, 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch preferred.

1. Cut fabric in a rectangle, 4in x 18 inches
2. Cut elastic, 8 inches 

3. Fold the fabric in half, so it becomes 2in x18inches. Sew along the long side to make a long tube. 

4. Turn inside out using the safety pin. 

5. Fold one side of the fabric in by 1/4 of an inch. Iron the folded side.

6. Pin the safety pin to one end of the elastic and fabric. Attach other safety pin to the other end of the elastic. Pass through to the other side of the fabric tube. 

7. Stitch to elastic ends together. Sew back and forth along the elastic several times to secure.

9. Sew along the edge to secure all pieces together. 

10. You’re done! Relax or repeat to make more for your Stroller Warrior friends! 

Do you need an easy gift idea to make for others?  Perhaps for Mother’s Day, Father's Day, a volunteer gift, or to help a friend celebrate a recent milestone. Whatever the reason, a wristlet for keys is an extremely easy and thoughtful homemade gift!

Read on to learn exactly how to make them. Happy sewing!

Materials you need:

1. Old cammies or any fabric cut into a 2inch x 10 inch strip.1 inch Webbing cut into a 10 inch strip.
2. Key fob hardware
3. Sewing Machine (needle, thread)

If you would like to add names or other words (like “half crazy”) you will also need a silhouette, cricket, or other similar vinyl cutting machine. Cut the name ahead of time. The name needs to be less than 1 inch tall. I generally make the name .75 of an inch tall.

Steps:

1. Cut the webbing to 1 inch and the fabric to 2 inches x 10 inches.

2. Burn the edges of the webbing with a lighter to melt pieces together and prevent future fraying. 

3. Iron the 2x10 cloth piece in half. Open the cloth piece and iron one edge to the halfway point. Repeat for the other side. See below photo for what it should look like at the end of the ironing process.

​​4. Stack the freshly ironed cloth piece onto the webbing so the edges of the fabric are touching the webbing. Stitch these pieces together. I like to use a longer stitch for this top stitching, generally a stitch length of 3. Repeat for the other side.

​***Note, you can color coordinate your threads to match or contrast the top and bottom colors as you wish. Below is top and bottom of what the finished product should look like.***

5. At this point you may choose to apply the name, or you can add the name at the end. Your choice. To determine the placement of the name, fold the fabric in half and pick based on looking at half of it. Don’t forget the hardware will take up about .5 of an inch at one end.

6. Fold in half and zig-zag to secure the two pieces together along the edge at the shortest side. I like to go back and forth over it a few times. See photo below, taken after this step was completed.

7. Use pliers to attach the key fob hardware (per the instructions that come with the key fob hardware). Basically, center it and press closed. Give a little tug to make sure it is secure and locked in place.  Then an extra press to be doubly sure!  See finished product below. 

​Congratulations, you’re done! 


Happy Sewing! 
Kelly 

I LOVE running trails. I HATE sticks and rocks getting stuck in my shoes. What to do about it? Buy gaiters! Gaiters are very popular with hikers and runners. They’re bits of fabric designed to go around your ankle and shoe to keep debris out. When I first learned about them I rushed to the store and bought a pair. The gaiters worked great but I am a distance runner and when I wore them for runs mores than a few miles, they started to cut into my ankles and really annoy me. When I’d take them off I’d have a sharp indention around my ankle where the elastic had been cutting into my skin.
 
Gaiters really do not take up a lot of fabric. They didn’t look complicated to make and I thought to myself, why not make my own pair? It took quite a bit of trial and error, but I am really happy with the version I came up with and I want to share my knowledge with you so you can skip the mistakes and end up with a perfect pair on your first go round!

Let’s get started.
 
What you need:

• A sewing machine and thread
• A piece of paper
• Scissors or rotary cutter
• Sew on Velcro
• Sticky back Velcro
• Hooks (2)
• Performance/moisture wicking stretch fabric. The fabric I used for this tutorial was a directional print with 50% stretch width wise and 30% stretch length wise. I’m sure a variety of fabrics will work. Just know you might have to adjust your pattern piece bigger or smaller if your first try isn’t a good fit.
• A 3 inches by 7 inches piece of non-stretch cotton fabric.

​First, let’s get started by making your pattern piece. You can use a regular piece of paper or you can use wax paper. This pattern piece will include seam allowances so no need to add them.
1. Mark 7 inches up from the bottom corner of the page.
2. Mark 7.5 inches from the bottom corner to the right.
3. Draw a line from 7 inches, 3.75 in into the paper. It should be a flat line and not angled up or down.
4. Draw a curved line from the 3.75 mark to the 7.5 mark. It's not a straight line, it's a slightly curved line!
5. Mark the fold so you remember where to line up the fold of your fabric.

​This is what your pattern piece will look like so far.

​6. Cut along the lines to reveal your pattern piece. 

​Now it’s time to cut your fabrics!
1. Fold your stretch fabric in half. Line up the fold on your pattern piece with the fold in your fabric. Cut 2.

This is what it will look like after you've cut it. Make sure you're NOT cutting on the fold line. Just cut the other 3 sides. Make sure you cut TWO. You'll need one for each foot! 

​2. Cut 1 piece of non-stretch cotton fabric 3 inches by 7 inches. Honestly you can cut this shorter, it could be 3 inchs by 5 inches but sometimes I like a little extra fabric just in case so that's why I made mine larger. 

​Are you ready to sew?!
 
1. Fold the 3x7 piece of fabric in half. Sew with ¼ seam allowance the short ends of the fabric. It will look like this when it’s done. 

​2. Flip inside out and push so it makes a point and the seam is in the middle (see photo). Iron flat. Set aside for later. 

​3. If you would like you can serge or zig-zag stitch the top and bottom of each pattern piece, however, this isn’t necessary as the stretch fabric won't fray. It just makes for a more professional finish. 

​4. Fold right sides together and stitch along the curved/diagonal edge. Use a stretch stitch (it looks like a lighting bolt) or a serger. Once you've done both they will look like this. 

​5. Take the cotton piece you prepared earlier and trim along the piece to make a triangle. Repeat for the other one. 

​6. Find the larger opening to your pattern piece and fold the fabric so you can see the seam line. Line up the seam line of the triangle with the seam line of your pattern piece. Pin in place. 

​7. Using the stretch stitch, sew the two pieces together with a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Serge or zig-zag stitch the same spot. This will prevent your cotton fabric from fraying. Repeat for the other side. 

​8. Push the triangle tip up and flip over. Fold down ½ inch and pin all of the way around. Using a ½ inch seam allowance, use a wide zig-zag stitch or a cover stitch all of the way around. Repeat on the other one. 

This is what they will look like when you're finished with that part: 

​9. Fold the TOP part that will go around your ankle down (the other side you haven’t sewn yet) ½ inch, pin in place and zig-zag stitch around. Repeat for the other one.

​10. Cut TWO 1.5 inches of the loop side of Velcro (it’s the softer side).

11. Fold the gaiter in half to find the middle back seam. Line up the middle of the Velcro with the middle of the back seam. Pin in place and then stitch the velcro in place using a regular stitch. Repeat for the other side.

This is what they will look like when you're done:

​12. Hand sew the hook so that it is at the tip of the triangle and facing the tip of the triangle (it should not be facing you). Repeat for the other side.

13. Clip threads and you’re done with the sewing part!
 
Now it’s time to add Velcro to your shoes!
 
Take your sticky back Velcro and cut two 1 inch hook pieces (the hard side of velcro). Use scissors to curve the corners. Peel off the plastic backing and place the Velcro in the middle back of your shoe. Some trail shoes already have Velcro on the back. You won’t need to add some if you have it already.
 
Watch the video for how to put your gaiters on and have fun on those trails!

 ​Christmas is almost here, are you ready yet?! In case you are still searching for gift ideas, I have a great stocking stuffer idea for you that is sure to please!

My quest for the perfect headband intensified when I became a runner. I hated wispy flyaway hairs always in my face! However, I never could get headbands to stay on my head. Enter the perfect solution (what I’m about to teach you how to make!):
 
These headbands are perfect because of the velvet on the backside. The velvet grips and sticks to your hair –but without pulling any hair out!
 
What you need:
Sewing machine
Velvet ribbon
Decorative ribbon
3/8 inch elastic
Black thread for the bobbin
Spool of thread to match the decorative ribbon
 
For this tutorial I used 1.5 inch ribbon but you can use just about any size as long as both the velvet and decorative ribbons are the same size.
 
Step 1:
Cut 16 inches of velvet ribbon
Cut 16 inches of decorative ribbon
Cut 6 inches of elastic

 Step 2: 
Layer your materials so they are right sides together with the elastic between them. Which means you'll layer it so that it is: velvet side of ribbon up, elastic, decorative side of ribbon down. 

Step 3:
Make sure you have black bobbin thread in the bobbin case and a decorative color threaded on the top of your machine.

Step 4:
​Line the ribbons up so they match, let the elastic hang out about 1/4-1/2 of an inch. Sew forward, back, and then forward over all three to lock them together and in place. 

Step 5: 
​Flip the ribbons to the other side so they are now right, side out. The elastic and the ribbons should be pointing in opposite directions now. 

Time to switch your feet! Much like how trail shoes are better for trail running, and flip flops are better for beaches, your sewing machine also has certain feet that are best for the job. Most sewing machines come with these feet so look around before you rush out to buy something new. 

Step 6: 
Switch the foot on your machine to a guide foot. I have a few different types, any one will do. The one in the left of the photo you can use the dial to scoot the guiding edge in and out to a preferred distance. The one on the right has a pre-set distance from the needle that cannot be changed.

Step 7:
Adjust your stitch length a little longer. I usually set mine to a 3.

Step 8:
Using your guiding foot sew from the elastic side all of the way down the ribbon. Place the black velvet side down and the decorative side up. This will ensure the black bobbin thread goes on the black velvet side and the matching decorative thread will be on the top. Be sure to keep the two ribbons stacked on top of each other. Sew in a straight line down the right side.

Step 9:
Stop sewing about an inch and a half before the end of the ribbons and fold the bottom ribbon up about a half an inch, and the top ribbon down about a half an inch.

Step 10:
Once you've lined them up continue sewing off the end of the ribbons.

Now stop, per request of your Mini Warrior helper in order to take a photo of HER. 

Step 11: 
Using the guiding edge foot sew down the other side of the ribbon just like you did the first side.

Sometimes the ends that fray easily will try to poke out the sides. If this is happening to you, stop sewing and use a pin or a pair of small scisors to tuck them under the ribbon.

Like this. (Photo courtesy of my mini warrior!)

Step 12: 
Change your foot back to the regular foot you started with!

Step 13:
Take the end of the elastic and insert it in between the decorative and velvet ribbons about 1/2 of an inch.

Step 14:
Sew back and forth 5 times to lock the elastic and ribbons together. I usually use the white clear part of my foot as the guide for my seam allowance. I believe it is 1/4 an inch. You want to make sure you're hitting all of the layers to lock them together.

Step 15:
Sew the next side of the headband and go back and forth 5 times, making sure to sew through all of the layers.

Step 16:
Give a tug on both sides of the elastic to make sure they're secure.

Step 17:
Cut off the extra threads.

And go from THIS

To THIS!!

Oh wait, these were supposed to be stocking stuffers. Good thing these are easy to make. I can make someone else a different one! 

Please share your versions of the headbands with us. We'd love to see them! 

Happy Running!
​Kelly